5/21/12 You kill it, we grill it!

La Posada was purchased in the mid-1990's by two artists and a preservationist, and their restoration of the hotel and grounds is more than admirable.  Every detail is true to Colter's vision and plan while updating to more modern touches.  The building is a showplace for the artists' work, and every area is comfortable and filled with architectural and lighting details.  For example, our room is painted in a warm orange with turquoise trim; lapis blue tiles; a built in bookcase filled with books; large pale green towels; punched tin light fixtures; and decorated with lovely indiginous baskets. I can't describe it adequately - check it out for yourselves at www.laposada.org.

We're such a fine sight to see

After a brief walking tour of downtown Winslow this morning - waiting our turn for a photo op at "the corner" because this goof ball and his tiny guitar was ordering his photographer around (probably his wife, poor thing) to take his photo about every five feet - we said goodbye to Winslow around 10:30 am and jumped back onto I-40 which is where we unfortunately traveled west until Winona.  This is all desert, arid and b-o-r-i-n-g.

How do you like my $16 photo?

To break up the monotony, we decide to travel south off of I-40 to see Meteor Crater - created about 50,000 years ago by a hurtling meteor bent on smackin' Earth.  What we didn't know was that in order to see this huge hole, we were expected to pay $16 a person.  Being the stupid gawkers that we are, we paid it.  A short film detailing the study of the hole proved to be pretty interesting and a breathless hike to the rim (not breathless in the sense that it's beautiful, but more in the sense that in the dry heat, I was breathless!), we took some photos of the hole, pondered the 8th wonder of the world, then got back on the highway.


West of Winona, the terrain changed completely.  No longer desert but now into mountain terrain with actual trees and pretty views.  We drove quickly on the Route through Flagstaff (Giant Alert! at Granny's Closet) and pulled into Williams (the gateway to the Grand Canyon) for gas ($4.20/gallon!) and a stroll down their main street.  Had a nice conversation with a photographer manning the local art gallery, and we enjoyed a plate of shredded beef taquitos on the outdoor patio at Cruiser's Cafe 66 - a renovated service station.  The Route west of Williams along Crookton Road into Seligman is really lovely - along an old railroad bed and well off the interstate.  

Seligman is a tiny town along the old Route with 500 residents, 13 souvenir stores, and a handful of 66-era motels.  We're staying at the Supai Motel with a wonderful neon sign and shared a half rack of ribs at the Roadkill Cafe ("you kill it, we grill it").  Looks like tomorrow morning we'll be doing our best to bolster the economy here in Seligman.


Happy trails, S

Through the telescope; I couldn't stop shaking it was so cool!

5/20/12- Standin' on the Corner in Winslow, Arizona...

This morning we made our way out of New Mexico and into Arizona. Finally, our seventh state! And it certainly started off with a bang. Our first stop: the Painted Desert. Old Route 66 made a  curvy loop through some of the Painted Desert which is now used as the official tour through the National Park. We didn't do any hikes but we pulled over at several overlooks to take some pictures. None of them truly capture the "purple mountains majesty." But seriously, they can't.


Along the old RT 66 section is the Painted Desert Inn, a 1920's adobe-style inn for travelers that was restored by the CCC in the 1930's and is now a visitors center. You can peek in the old rooms and each one has a fireplace and sink- no toilet or shower/tub!


 



The road through the National Park continues south of the old 66 loop for 20 more miles of the Painted Desert and the Petrified Forest. We took a short loop around Blue Mesa for a photo op with the Woodstock Independent and then stopped to walk around the "Crystal Forest." This section of the park is filled with huge chunks of perfectly sliced petrified wood- many with crystals inside. In case you, like me, didn't know how wood petrifies here's the gist: millions of years ago what is now the Painted Desert was a big floodplain where giant fallen trees littered the ground. These logs were covered in silt and silica filtered down from the water above, encasing the wood's organic material with minerals. So, essentially, the "wood" is actually large chunks of wood-shaped quartz. They look perfectly sliced, not, as I postulated, because dino-lumberjacks had giant chainsaws, but because tectonic shifts caused the petrified wood to crack along natural weak spots. So, to sum up, the Painted Desert and Petrified Forest are pretty awesome.


Back on the route we stopped for another photo op at the Rainbow Rock Shop which has a lovely display of smiling, brightly colored dinosaurs. In New Mexico and especially in Arizona, there is a rock shop or trading post (read: gift shop) about every mile. And there used to be more. Some are just ruins now- which is slightly haunting. One of the stores that is still around is the Jackrabbit, one of the most famous trading posts because of its once numerous roadside billboards featuring the trademark rabbit silhouette.


From the Jackrabbit we made our way to Winslow, AZ, no we haven't stood on the corner...yet. It is honored with a statue and mural which we'll look for tomorrow. Today we were too preoccupied with our fabulous lodging! The beautifully restored La Posada Hotel was designed, gardens and all, by Mary Colter a very influential Southwestern architect who exemplified the "Pueblo Deco" style. The gardens and sitting areas abound, all peaceful and welcoming. Each room is named after a famous person many of whom have stayed at the hotel. Our room is the Roy Rodgers.


We spent the afternoon drinking a glass of wine in the sunken garden. What a lovely, relaxing place. Soon it was time to see the solar eclipse. Luckily a couple at the hotel had the perfect equipment to see the eclipse without rendering ourselves blind. I hope you saw it. If not, here are some pictures that might give you the idea.

We headed in to dinner in the Turquoise Room after the eclipse. We had a lovely meal complete with corn and black bean soup, crispy pork carnitas and double chocolate and Grand Marnier souffle. Delicious! One of our best meals for sure. 


It's been a great day in Arizona, hopefully the rest of the state will be just as interesting. If we ever leave this hotel...


Until we meet again, C

5/19/12 Across the Great Divide

Starting off our food frenzy today, we enjoyed breakfast on the terrace outside the lobby at the El Rey Inn.  As Caitlin mentioned, this is a large complex but full of trees, shrubs, and flowers that it feels very intimate.  A longer stay here would have seen us relaxing around the pool and more time at "our" hot tub.  

Dead Man's Curve

After a few days break from the Route, we returned to it this morning heading toward Albuquerque with a lovely drive between Algodones and Bernalillo.  Back into Albuquerque, we felt as if we'd returned home as we traveled the Route through the neighborhoods we visited a few days ago.  West of Alburquerque, the Route parallels the interstate with several crossings of I-40, however, a great section west of Mesita diverts from the interstate curving through mesas passing Owl Rock and Dead Man's Curve (were Jan and Dean here?) that aptly got it's name.  

From this area, we've been rewarded with beautiful red cliffs and hills through small towns and reservations having a mid-day lunch in Grants, NM (sharing a tasty Mexican pizza), stopping for photo op's at the Continental Divide and an interesting dead-end Route sign, and finally passing colorful rock cliffs and spires as we arrived for the night in Gallup, New Mexico.  We wanted to stay at the 66-famous El Rancho Hotel but found they were booked for the night.  We opted for plan B (Super 8) and finished our day on the road with a Giant Alert! and great sandwiches (and even better fries) at the Coal St Pub in downtown Gallup.  


We cross into Arizona tomorrow, and we realize we have so much more to see and do.  Early start tomorrow...


Happy trails, S

5/18/12- What Are You Doing in Our Hot Tub??

"Our" hot tub at El Rey

This morning, mom and Becky got up early to go back to the iris farm to make a few purchases. Since she had to choose from photos, it'll be a surprise to see what the flowers actually look like. I'm sure they will be beautiful.


Once we packed up we said goodbye to Becky and Alexa and headed to Santa Fe. The ride up was uneventful and long. We got to Santa Fe around 3 pm and were surprised to find that the city rolls up the sidewalks around 4:30-5, even on weekends. Even in the short amount of time we had to drive and walk around I really liked Santa Fe. The entire downtown is a GIFT SHOP ALERT! Even the streets and plazas are filled with artisans showcasing their wares. It is an old-style Spanish town, built around a plaza, filled with gift shops, galleries and cafes. You could spend several days just exploring the narrow one-way streets (I'd suggest walking as driving can be frustrating) and discovering great little restaurants and shops. 

One definite recommendation we can give in Santa Fe is the El Rey Inn. It's a Route 66 staple that has grown into a 5 acre complex complete with a "junior olympic pool" and two hot tubs (one right across from our room). It is not the typical 66 motel price but the grounds are beautiful, our room was spacious and free breakfast was pretty good too!


 For dinner we had read in Road Food (a great guide for great food on the road) that the Plaza Cafe, conveniently located on the plaza, had a great quesadilla, and we were super excited. Unfortunately, a fire had destroyed the interior and it was still being renovated. However, a helpful shopkeeper informed us that there is a second location so we could "get our fix." The food was good but the quesadilla we were craving wasn't on the menu! I guess we'll have to go back to the original this winter...


Until we meet again, C

5/17/12 Lunch at the Wortley

We're well off of Route 66, and we're happy you're still here with us following our adventure.  Thanks to everyone for sharing the road, and we encourage your comments.


After a great night's sleep, we relaxed around the beautiful home that Matt and Becky designed and built years ago and raised their girls.  Matt suddenly took ill ten years ago, and though his body passed away, his spirit lives on in this home and in his family.  Alena said goodbye this morning to return to Texas Tech in Lubbock where she graduates this weekend from nursing school (congratulations to you and Happy Birthday!), and Becky, Alexa, Caitlin, and I strolled around Old Lincoln (geocaching at the Torreon) and sat on the front porch at the Wortley where we had a lively lunch with Becky's friends, Susan, husband Leif, Lisa, Elaine, and Dee.  We visited the old courthouse (with a 10 cent overview by Bennie) where William Bonney (aka Billy the Kid) escaped from capture during the Lincoln County War.  Which had nothing to do with Indians or property rights, but rather commerce.  We also visited the McSween-Tunstell store (one faction of the War), that is intact to its 1880s era, meeting site staffers Murray and Ira.

Lunch at the Wortley with the Lincoln ladies (and Leif)

McSween-Tunstell Store

We visited Susan and Leif's beautiful home and Susan's studio.  Susan is a very creative person, and Lisa was helping in her studio while Elaine is learning/mastering the wheel.  Susan is currently working on a commissioned piece for a memorial, and we were honored to see the work in progress.  The view from their front porch is of the enchanting New Mexican landscape.  Back at Becky's homestead, we toured her lovely cottage (Lincolnworks) that she is now renting.  Anyone wishing to visit Lincoln, please visit www.lincolnworksnm.com.

Alexa and Becky relaxin'!

Relaxing on Becky's patio, we played with the puppy (no name as yet) who is a mix of a French Boxer and Cavalier King Charles Spaniel (think Lady and the Tramp), and discussed tomorrow's destination.  Caitlin and I thought we'd go back the same way, detouring for a short visit to the Very Large Array, but Becky and Alexa strongly encouraged us to visit Santa Fe.  They won out.  We walked back to search for a geocache that Alexa and Becky had both searched for but couldn't find.  We went off the beaten path behind the historic buildings and located the cache adding Jeff Lee's Billy the Kid flip book into it.  Jeff, you're on the road with us!

We then traveled east into tiny Tinnie to the Silver Dollar restaurant for a steak dinner.  Quite an interesting place that's for sale - anyone want to buy this cool building filled with stained glass and wonderful artwork?  After dinner, during dusk, on the way back to Lincoln we made a quick stop to the Iris Farm in Hondo, and although they were closed, the master gardener let us in for a couple minutes to stroll.  Becky and I both decided to return first thing tomorrow morning to see it.  It's been a perfect visit to Lincoln; perfect weather, and perfect hosts.  Everyone should visit this town that time stopped still.

Happy Trails, S

5/16/12 Wining in The Land of Enchantment

Who doesn't like to start the morning off with a wine tasting?  Quite a number of wineries in the Albuquerque area but we choose the Gruet tasting house just north of town.  We tasted some really delicious wines and after purchasing a couple Chardonnays and a half bottle of a sparking rose (and joining their mail order club - what a consumer I am!), we jumped on I-25 traveling south out of Albuquerque.  We turned east on Hwy 380 at San Antonio and stopped for lunch - The Buckhorn or The Owl Bar?  We chose the Owl Bar and ate delicious green chili burgers.  If you're a fan of those tasteless green chilis you get in a can, you've not tasted them.  New Mexico is king of the green chilis.  Also searched for two geocaches in San Antonio - one of which we found fairly easily; the other we gave up on as we're respectful of this countryside and totally afraid of snakes!

West of Carrizozo, and as we approached the mountains, we came upon this stark land that looked like charcoal for miles around.  A sign directed us to the Valley of Fires National Recreation Area where we pulled over and got some information from the friendly ranger.  Approximately 2,000 years ago, the Earth opened in this area - 44 miles long and 10 miles wide - and the lava erupted from the fissures.  When it cooled, it created the most fascinating landscape.  We walked the 3/4 mile nature trail and enjoyed the uniqueness of the area.  Great stop.

Valley of Fires Nature Walk

Valley of Fires Nature Walk

We pulled in to Historic Lincoln NM, and it's as I remember it 31 years ago when I traveled here with my fiance (Gullotto) and friends Jeff and Randy to visit their frat brother Matt and bride Becky.  Lincoln oozes history with the Lincoln County War and the infamous Billy the Kid, and because it's an historic area, nothing has changed.  There is no gas station, grocery store, Starbucks, nothing we're used to in a 21st century town.  Just fascinating old buildings, approximately 40 residents (our dear friend Becky is one), museums, and the Wortley Hotel.  Becky and daughters, Alena and Alexa, were waiting on the porch for us and waved at us as we slowly drove by.  What a treat to see her again and meet her beautiful girls.  And we were also entertained by the newest member of the family, an 8 week old puppy who is too cute for words.

Can I bite your feet???

Becky was hosting a Wine Party that evening and we were joined by her friends Ginger, Elaine, and Susan.  Lovely women all and we enjoyed ourselves very much.  Nothing like starting the day off with Gruet wine and ending it with Gruet wine.  


Have you heard of Miller's moths?  They've attacked Lincoln like the plague, and Alena spent the night whacking them.  


We have the lovely guest suite with a ridiculously comfortable bed, antiques, and complete peace and quiet.  Which is what Lincoln and Becky's home is all about.  This canyon is truly enchanting.


Happy Trails, S

5/15/12- We're on the Same Page

Our second day in Albuquerque was well worth it. We started off in Old Town which was walking distance from our motel. Just as we reached the old plaza, a voice from behind asked, "would you ladies like a tour of old town?" We turned around and it was a guy on a bike rickshaw. We said sure and hopped on. Our guide, Mike showed us all around the old town and gave us some history of the buildings and area in general. 

The town well was fortified against
hostiles

The city was established by the Spaniards which is why the original town was built in the Spanish plaza layout. The town was technically governed by a Spanish Viceroy who had never actually been to the continent. He sent Francisco Cuervo to rule directly; he named the town Villa de San Francisco, after himself. The Viceroy was not happy and made him change it to Albuquerque the name of a town in Spain. (In Spain it's spelled Alburquerque and both words come from the Arabic word for apricot tree). Even though the town is named for the Viceroy, they only have a statue of Don Francisco Cuervo.


On our tour we also saw the Catholic church that was built in the late 1700's and is one of the oldest buildings in the city. Almost all of the other buildings have been converted into shops but they were mostly family homes along with a bank, a hotel/saloon, two brothels and a home for unwed mothers. The shops that used to be family homes all have courtyards and several generations of a family would live in the different rooms of the house. Many of the buildings are  made of adobe while some are wood but plastered over for the same aesthetic (you can tell the adobe from the wood by looking at the doorways and window wells because the adobe walls are much thicker)


Mike also had us get out and look at an old tree that had the Virgen de Guadalupe (the Virgin Mary) carved into it. It's something you wouldn't notice unless it was pointed out. Very cool. After our tour we took some time to peruse the numerous shops in the area and found some great souvenirs. Our favorite shops included tinTERO and Gabby's Soap Shop. 
We stopped for lunch at Casa de Ruiz Church St Cafe, apparently the best restaurant in town because our motel owner, Mike and a random woman on the street (overheard talking to someone else) all recommended it. We had a nice lunch out on the patio of the converted home. It was, as you may have guessed by the name, once the home to many generations of the Ruiz family. Now it is a popular restaurant for locals and tourists alike and for humans and animals alike. While sitting outside a group of people came up with two dogs for one of whom the woman asked for a "real chair" because her little Pomeranian wouldn't sit on the little bench that was there, let alone the ground!


After a tasty lunch we headed back to the motel to load some New Mexico geocaches onto the GPS. Mike had told us that there were a couple in Old Town that he knew of so we wanted to find at least one. We drove back to Old Town and found the TINIEST geocache we'd ever seen by the statue of Don Francisco. We then did a little more shopping and in one store the owner was excited to learn I spoke Spanish and we had a pretty long conversation about Spanish linguistics, and I'm sure mom was bored out of her mind. Sorry! 


Then we wandered around new downtown, took some pictures and had a drink outside at Maloney's Tavern where mom got carded. She was pretty excited. We went back to the hotel, took advantage of their very nice pool then headed for the Sandia Peak Tramway which didn't open until 5pm (because it was a Tuesday- I don't get it). It actually turned out well that we went up later in the day because the view was beautiful as the sun was setting. The tramway opened in 1966 and takes you to the peak at 10,300 ft. From end to end the trip is 2.7 miles. It was a wonderful view of the city and we're told on a clear day, ours was not, you can see over 90 miles.


Back in town we stopped for dinner at Artichoke Cafe, which we had seen the night before and wanted to go in but didn't have the chance. It was a little more upscale than we predicted- I was wearing my hiking shoes after being on the mountain- but we had a lovely dinner nonetheless. Our server Diane was awesome for holding the last fish special which is what I really wanted. I was very grateful because it was delicious! It was a butter poached black cod with potatoes au gratin, green beans and pesto- all my favorites! Mom had the prosciutto-wrapped scallops- also delicious!


It was a great day in Albuquerque! I would highly recommend visiting if you get the chance, it's been one of my favorite cities so far and we didn't get even to see THAT much.


Until we meet again, C